When I finally reached the hut I was exhausted. I found a level but stony piece of ground next to the hut and set up camp. A moderate breeze was blowing, which although cold, had a drying effect, so I opened up the tent for an hour or so to try and dry out the inside. The view from the camp was unusual. Looking back up to the pass I could make out the black outline of the main hut, and in the opposite direction was the North Atlantic, blue and calm.There was a picnic table nearby, so I set up my stove on that and cooked my dinner. The wind was getting up and it was sometimes a struggle to stop the windshield from blowing away. All in all it was a very rough and bleak place to camp, but I was cheered up every time I looked a few yards from my tent and saw the wide 4WD track that led down to Skogar and the end of the walk. Tonight would be my last in a tent, for a while at least.That night the wind grew in ferocity, buffeting the tent. It rained for most of the night, and I was concerned at just how rough the weather might get up there before the dawn.
Day 6 – 13th August 2002.I woke to a calm but overcast day, and quickly cooked breakfast and packed away my tent and equipment. I was eager to set off and cover the remaining distance to Skogar and take a hot bath!I followed the wide 4WD track downhill through some rather unremarkable moorland. Sometimes the marker posts followed the road, and at others they struck out across the moor to bypass a bend in the road and re-join it on the other side. By this point in the trek my feet were starting to complain from the constant pounding of my heavy pack. I had a few blisters and a bad heel, which made every step downhill painful. As a result I found myself resting quite a lot, and when I was walking I watched the distance to go to Skogar counting down on my GPS receiver. Also, I couldn’t help wondering what Skogar was like, as I was still too high up to see the settlement at all. I hoped I could get a nice beer in the hotel.After what seemed like an age I came to a wooden bridge that crossed the Skoga River. On the other side the route to Skogar split in two. I could either take the 4WD track down, or follow the river bank past what I had read to be a marvelous series of waterfalls, culminating in Skogafoss itself. There was no contest, I had to follow the river. Unfortunately though, I had gone no more than a few yards along the route when the obvious trail I was following disappeared and the marker posts seemed to indicate a return to the 4WD track (at the end of the trek I met another traveler who also had been unable to see the route). Reluctantly, I switched back to the rather dull jeep road.After much downhill plodding, the rough moorland started to give way to lush green hillsides. Finally, I looked up and to my right and saw another path parallel with mine. Hurrying down it was another walker, and I realised it must be the lost path that had come down the bank of the river. I trekked across to it, fording several boggy areas and streams. Following this new trail, I passed a couple of impressive waterfalls and rapids, before I heard the roar of Skogafoss ahead. A steep flight of steps led down the side of Skogafoss and these proved to be the last hurdle of the trek – quite painful with bad feet and a heavy pack! Now I could see Skogar in front of me. The sun was shining brightly, and a couple of tourist coaches were parked in the car park up ahead. I could see several farms dotted around, with verdant fields dotted with silage bales wrapped in white plastic.At the bottom of the steps I turned to appreciate Skogafoss itself. It seemed much taller and more dramatic than in the photographs I had seen of it. The volume of water cascading over the drop was very impressive. There were a few other people around, gathered on the shingle bank and staring up at the thundering falls. I took some photos and then realised that this was it – the end of the trek! It was time to get myself cleaned up and head back to civilization.Skogafoss waterfall, Skogar._________________________________________I was very pleased when I finished the Landmannalaugar - Skogar trek. I had been very lucky with the weather, had fantastic views of some memorable landscapes, and achieved the goal of doing my first self supported wilderness trek. Having done the walk, I would have to agree with the guidebooks and say that this route is surely destined to become a popular classic. It is already fairly crowded because of the short time period each year when the path is open for normal hiking, but despite this, it retains a real wilderness feel.